Adornments on Mt. Cherni Vrah

Adornments on Mt. Cherni Vrah

Saturday, October 8, 2011

MEETING KONSTANTINOV ON CHERNI VRAH?

It's good news for those of us who struggle with reading Bulgarian when a complete English-language version of Bai Ganyo appears!  That happened last year when the University of Wisconsin Press issued Bai Ganyo:  Incredible Tales of a Modern Bulgarian, edited by Victor A. Friedman.  (See:  http://www.alibris.com/booksearch?keyword=aleko+konstantinov&mtype=B) I didn't have to read too far into the stories of Bai Ganyo's travels in Western Europe when I came across this passage:
 
 "I  know  some guys who've spent ten whole years...doing nothing at all but rotting in the smoke-filled room of the Cafe Panah [can anyone tell me where this was?!] with cards in their hands, and right in front of their noses blooms this lovely, this picturesque, urban garden...We sit in coffeehouses and sigh for Switzerland, but all we need is a little energy, and Switzerland, a Bulgarian Switzerland, is right before us--Mt. Vitosha, Rila, the Rhodopes...is there one local...who has ever climbed Vitosha?"  From "Bai Ganyo Returns from Europe," spoken by the character "Marcus Aurelius."
 
I couldn't help recalling my very first post below, when I wrote how much Sofia, with Vitosha Park looming above it, reminded me of an Alpen village.  I savored the irony that my literary muse, Staslivitse, felt the same way.
 
But it's appropriate to celebrate Konstantinov for another reason.  In August I joined hundreds of others in climbing up the Cherni Vrah.  It was the National Day of Tourism in Sofia, which, I learned, was initiated by our hero Konstantinov about 110 years ago.  This explains why there are two hotels in the park, the Aleko and the Staslivitse.  Climbers young and old (very young, very old) were joined by an athletic contingent who ran all the way up from NDK in a competive marathon!  My wife and I enjoyed socializing with the large crowd at the summit.  This included a couple of old-timers who said that had hiked over from a nearby chair-lift, and had departed from Sandanski the day before with a group of 50 souls.  It was one of these gents who filled me in on the Konstantinov connection.
 
If you haven't climbed Cherni Vrah yet, Staslivitse is urging you to leave the smoke-filled room.  It's only a short drive away.

3 comments:

  1. Ken, this is such a great experience!

    Grand Hotel Panah was situated on the corner of Dondukov Blvd. and Serdika Str. (on the place of the building next to the Council of Ministers). Initially, its owner was a Czech - Johann Panah (Йохан Панах). The hotel was one of the most famous meeting places in Sofia. It was built at the end of the 19th century and existed until the 1920s. Here below I give some useful links, one of them showing a painting of the hotel:

    http://mila.izkustvo.net/стара-софия-гранд-хотел-панах/

    http://novinar.bg/news/sladkarnitca-v-stara-sofiia-primamvala-klienti-s-radio-i-ruskinia_MzYwNjszNQ==.html

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  2. Greetings from Australia Ken,

    Great to read your interesting and informative blog all the way from Bulgaria. I must confess that the only connection I have to the country is with fetta, but now my interest has been piqued to learn more!

    I enjoyed reading about Konstantinov and his character -am inspired to track down a copy. Your description and thoughts set down in your posts reminded me of a writer that I'm sure you know - Donald Keene. His book Chronicles of my life: an American in the heart of Japan, published by Columbia University Press 2009 is well written and I recommend it to you.

    Keene describes his experiences as a foreigner in Japan, a translator of Japanese literature and the difficulties he faced in getting American publishers to accept Japanese literature despite its popularity in the mid-20th century, and the rewards and frustrations of teaching at Columbia and Cambridge. Some similarities with your experiences in Bulgaria perhaps?

    Looking forward to reading more from you
    Bye for now and take care

    Warm regards\
    Cheryl Tinney Ascot Vale Melbourne

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  3. What a beautiful picture, Ken! But what will the winter be like? Hmm... Have fun!

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