Adornments on Mt. Cherni Vrah

Adornments on Mt. Cherni Vrah

Monday, November 8, 2010

(with apologies to Aleko Konstantinov)
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
Thank you taking the time to read this new blog from the Public Affairs Section of the American Embassy.  I will be using this space to tell you something about the inner workings of the imposing embassy building on Kozyak St.  Although I’ve done some classroom teaching, I don’t like to lecture, or even talk too much about myself, so I am counting on you, my readers, to make this blog interactive. 
That said, a lot of Bulgarians have asked me two questions:  Why I came to Bulgaria?, and, What are my impressions of the place? 
OK, why?  Having now lived a year or more in six foreign countries, I’ve realized that it is really the local people, and these people only, who determine one’s experience in the country.  I got to know my Japanese wife in Japan, so naturally I like Japan (J), but I also met a young Bulgarian diplomat who made a very good impression on me about her country.  I was duly impressed not only by how well she spoke English, but also how well she spoke Japanese!  Now this would have been enough to pique my interest, but actually I also met a young Bulgarian physician in West Berlin some 30 years ago, who has since become one of my best friends.  (His German wife calls him “Toshko” for “Todor.”  My wife and are tickled since this is also a Japanese name—for women!)  So the answer to the first question is easy:  I came here to learn about my friends’ country, and to meet more Toshkos and Lizzies.
Impressions
I’ve often been asked what expectations I had of Bulgaria before I visited for the first time, which is a good question, and “correcting misperceptions” –what living abroad can do-- is a cliché of public diplomacy.  Since I had already lived in Hungary and Ukraine, I expected to find a country more or less in this Eastern European model.  I didn’t know the Balkans and wasn’t sure how Bulgaria would be different from them.  Since my wife and I like to read and play piano, we hoped to find a place where people appreciate books and music.  I expected to find a thriving folklore culture, since I knew of musicians and music-lovers who spent their summers in Koprivshtitsa and Varna for folk festivals or classical training.  I’d also seen the map showing tall and rugged mountains, but I had no idea that the magnificent Vitosha would tower over Sofia.  Every day now as I cross Cherni Vruh St. on the way to the embassy I look up at that glorious peak and draw inspiration—and have to remind myself that I’m not in Switzerland!  I sometimes wonder if the residents of Sofia appreciate how spectacular the Vitosha Park mountain peaks are.
So let me ask you:  What do you recommend that foreigners see or do in Bulgaria?  And, if you have visited America, how did your expectations change after you stayed there?

9 comments:

  1. Wonderful idea, Ken! I love the Aleko Konstantinov reference! I guess I have the honor of posting the first comment. I can't wait to read the next post. Best, Iva Tsekova

    ReplyDelete
  2. I would highly recommend the Rhodope Mountains to anyone visiting Bulgaria. Talking about local people, you will see hospitality there that I cannot imagine to me outmatched in any other place in the world. Nature is also amazing. Congratulations for the blog! Best wishes!
    Hristo Alexiev

    ReplyDelete
  3. Ken,
    Nice opening blog and the picture of Vitosha is inspiring! I've encountered many wonderful Bulgarians during my year and a half in Sofia! Looking to visit more places before I must leave!
    Best wishes, Debbie

    ReplyDelete
  4. Good luck with your blog, Ken. It is nicely begun. The picture of the mountain is amazing! So that's what was behind all those clouds the whole week I was there! Now I want to come back and see what else I missed.
    Tony

    ReplyDelete
  5. Hi Ken,
    Very nice picture of "your"mountain. It reminds me a bit of Colorado Springs, with just a bit of the peak above tree line. I remember moving from the midwest to the Srpings to start college, and thinking the Peak and foothills looked strangely artificial, like a film backdrop.( Because I had no reference point, coming from Chicago). And i missed the prairies and lakes.
    Enjoy your stay, but you seem to be doing that already. Have you biked much?

    ReplyDelete
  6. On Mountains and Books :-)

    Hi, Ken,
    By some strange coincidence, just a day or two before I visited your blog I'd come across some amazing (albeit hypothetical) information about Vistosha, and, more specifically, about the so-called "Vitoshki moreni" – the big round stones which form some kind of petrified streams or rivers, and which add a lot to the unique beauty of this mountain. According to the latest hypothesis (launched in a recently published book by a Bulgarian cultural anthropologist), they are not a natural phenomenon, but megalithic artefacts!?! A multipart megalithic complex, supposedly created by the ancient Thracians in correlation with the ecliptic of the Sun, summer and winter solstice, etc.
    Just a tentative theory, but it made me recall the feeling of awe and wonder that those stone rivers have always provoked in me. Yes, Ken, maybe you are right that we sometimes forget in what close proximity to the sublime and the spectacular our everyday life follows its course.
    May we all share more magic moments :-)
    Best,
    Iskra

    ReplyDelete
  7. Maybe I could suggest you to visit Plovdiv if you haven't, starting the trip from the Post office at the city center. There are some Roman ruins.Along the way you can see the Mosque and the Roman stadium with the monument of Philip II Makedonski and on the right (depending on which way you come) you can continue to the Old City. I can see people are fascinated with the houses there.I wasn't a history lover but what I heard from my teacher about world history was that wealthy people (Bulgarians) had houses back in time and they didn't want Bulgaria to be liberated from the Ottoman slavery partly because the trade market was blossoming and was one of the best and that way Bulgaria would lose the trade relationships with the 3 continents.
    Other things you can see there are the Roman amphitheater where they held concerts too, The Balabanova house, Ethnographic museum, Hissar Kapiya, Georgiadi House and right the opposite side is the Round tower,etc. There is the square Union and Aliosha in Plovdiv....
    There is the Roman Aqueduct you can see but it is not at the city center. If you want to see it the Google maps says it is on the street Komatevo shose and depending on which side you come it can be before or after the traffic lights. It is a closer way to go to the Rhodopi Mountains by car from there.

    Have a great day and looking forward to your next posts/topics!

    ReplyDelete
  8. Hello Ken Moskowitz!

    May I ask you what you suggest as good cities/places to visit as a tourist in America except Los Angeles, Las Vegas, the Grand Canyon, the Niagara Falls? It could be some that are not so popular too to say.
    Going to New York city was really nice!I would like to repeat it one day.

    All the best!

    ReplyDelete
  9. Dear Nadya,

    I'd like to thank you for your tips on visiting Plovdiv, and for your thoughtful comments. I have visiting Plovdiv several times, mostly recently escorting friends from Colorado. We saw some of the sites you mention, and were particularly impressed by the Roman amphitheater.

    As for a vacation in the U.S., I think that where you go should depend on what you like: a history tour, adventure tourism, art and museums, etc. For history, people go to Boston, Williamsburg, Va., and St. Augustine, Fla. For adventure (and breathtaking scenery), the national parks; my favorites are Brice Canyon and Yosemite. For museums, you can't beat Washington since the array of Smithsonian museums are all free. But if it's one city to choose, for me it's San Francisco. For one state: Hawaii.

    Bon voyage!

    ReplyDelete